Getting to Quartermaster
One of the reasons we picked March 1st for exploring Quartermaster Harbor was the wind prediction: no winds of any speeds to worry about. However, one thing we hadn’t planned on was fog. It was very foggy and the trip starts with a 1.7nm crossing to Vashon Island from Point Defiance. This isn’t our first foggy open water crossing nor is it the farthest, but it is a busier waterway than our previous crossings in the fog so we were a little apprehensive.
The Crossing
Once we cleared the breakwater we got ourselves lined up using the Garmin and took a compass heading. This way we could paddle towards our destination and only consult the Garmin periodically to see if we were drifting. We experienced a tendency for our course to drift to the east, so I suspect there was a weak cross current. On a clear day we probably wouldn’t notice it. When you can see your destination minor course corrections are automatic, but if I stopped looking at my compass for a couple minutes I would be 15-20 degrees east of my desired heading. I didn’t worry about this much since our waypoint is the west side of the entrance to the harbor. East is also the safer way to drift off-course since the ferry crossing was not too far to our west.
Listening to the Unseen
As we made our way across Dalco Passage, I listened for boat motors. I heard several planes and the fog horns of several large ships. At one point, I could hear a low droning sound. I realized it was the generator on a large ship. After listening very carefully for the distinctive rumble of a ship’s propulsion, I determined it must be at anchor and wasn’t something to worry about.
Landfall
The Garmin informed us we were in the intertidal zone of the south end of Vashon. We couldn’t see the shore, but looking down we could see the bottom, so we began watching for BFR’s (Big F*¢#!^& Rocks). I learned that term from my fighter-pilot Grandfather. A few paddle strokes later, the shore appeared surprisingly close.
Portage, the Turnaround Point
After I took the picture above I thought I had turned off my phone before I put it in my pocket, turns out I was wrong. Here is a screenshot of all the pocket photos I took – quite a variety of reds to be had:
After reaching Portage, we headed straight back to Point Defiance, almost 7nm. We wanted to get back before sunset. We don’t have a problem paddling at night; it’s just that we wanted to pack up in the daytime.
The Mountain is Out
As we exited Quartermaster Harbor, we were greeted by Mount Tahoma / Mount Rainier. I have lived in sight of this mountain for most of my life but it is still a stunning view.
End of a Good Paddle
After we got packed up, we went home to change clothes before heading out for dinner and a celebratory pint: the perfect end to a great day’s paddle.
Portage, the Turnaround Point
After I took the picture above I thought I had turned off my phone before I put it in my pocket, turns out I was wrong. Here is a screenshot of all the pocket photos I took – quite a variety of reds to be had:
After reaching Portage, we headed straight back to Point Defiance, almost 7nm. We wanted to get back before sunset. We don’t have a problem paddling at night; it’s just that we wanted to pack up in the daytime.
The Mountain is Out
As we exited Quartermaster Harbor, we were greeted by Mount Tahoma / Mount Rainier. I have lived in sight of this mountain for most of my life but it is still a stunning view.
End of a Good Paddle
After we got packed up, we went home to change clothes before heading out for dinner and a celebratory pint: the perfect end to a great day’s paddle.
We continued north to Raab’s Lagoon. At nearly 4 feet, the tide was too low to paddle into the lagoon but we were able to see the entrance and the natural area next to it.
An Unexpected Find
On our way to Portage, I could see something sticking up out of the water. When I got closer I could see the stays and realized it was a mast from a sailboat. I figure it probably sank during a recent windstorm. I couldn’t see fuel on the water, but I could smell it. It wasn’t very deep, but I can’t imagine raising a sailboat off the bottom is going to be cheap.
Portage, the Turnaround Point
After I took the picture above I thought I had turned off my phone before I put it in my pocket, turns out I was wrong. Here is a screenshot of all the pocket photos I took – quite a variety of reds to be had:
After reaching Portage, we headed straight back to Point Defiance, almost 7nm. We wanted to get back before sunset. We don’t have a problem paddling at night; it’s just that we wanted to pack up in the daytime.
The Mountain is Out
As we exited Quartermaster Harbor, we were greeted by Mount Tahoma / Mount Rainier. I have lived in sight of this mountain for most of my life but it is still a stunning view.
End of a Good Paddle
After we got packed up, we went home to change clothes before heading out for dinner and a celebratory pint: the perfect end to a great day’s paddle.
The Parks of Quartermaster
One of the reasons we wanted to paddle Quartermaster Harbor was to look at park access from the water for several of the parks. At the tide height we visited, most didn’t look too welcoming. I was also surprised at how many sand dollars were here.
Our First (and Only) Break
As we made our way to Dockton Park for lunch the fog began to lift revealing a beautiful blue sky. By the time we finished our lunch the fog was gone and we did the rest of our paddle with great visibility.
We continued north to Raab’s Lagoon. At nearly 4 feet, the tide was too low to paddle into the lagoon but we were able to see the entrance and the natural area next to it.
An Unexpected Find
On our way to Portage, I could see something sticking up out of the water. When I got closer I could see the stays and realized it was a mast from a sailboat. I figure it probably sank during a recent windstorm. I couldn’t see fuel on the water, but I could smell it. It wasn’t very deep, but I can’t imagine raising a sailboat off the bottom is going to be cheap.
Portage, the Turnaround Point
After I took the picture above I thought I had turned off my phone before I put it in my pocket, turns out I was wrong. Here is a screenshot of all the pocket photos I took – quite a variety of reds to be had:
After reaching Portage, we headed straight back to Point Defiance, almost 7nm. We wanted to get back before sunset. We don’t have a problem paddling at night; it’s just that we wanted to pack up in the daytime.
The Mountain is Out
As we exited Quartermaster Harbor, we were greeted by Mount Tahoma / Mount Rainier. I have lived in sight of this mountain for most of my life but it is still a stunning view.
End of a Good Paddle
After we got packed up, we went home to change clothes before heading out for dinner and a celebratory pint: the perfect end to a great day’s paddle.
Comments
Scott Andrews • March 25, 2025
Great trip details. And love the information regarding navigating in the fog. Very helpful.
Don Short • March 25, 2025
Looks like a fun paddle. I’ve done that one before, but never in the fog. That would be a bit disconconcerting!
Allan Frit • March 26, 2025
Great read. Some would postpone for the ideal tide or for no fog but this worked out with advantages and great pictures. An adventure that few of us will get the opportunity to do. Thanks for sharing and the great write up.
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